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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.